How to Inspect a Used Marlin and Spot a "Remlin"

Why the era matters

Marlin has built lever guns since the nineteenth century, and the 336, 1894 and 1895 are among the most popular rifles of their kind ever made. But the company's recent history has three distinct chapters, and they matter when you buy used.

• Marlin's own production. For most of the brand's history, Marlin built its rifles itself, latterly in North Haven, Connecticut. These are the rifles collectors call "JM" guns, after the proof mark on the barrel.
• The Remington years. In December 2007, Cerberus Capital Management, the parent of Remington Arms, bought Marlin. In 2010 Marlin announced it would close its North Haven plant, and production moved to Remington facilities including Ilion, New York; the North Haven closure is reported in April 2011. Rifles from the years after the move are widely reported by owners to have had uneven fit and finish, and owners coined the nickname "Remlin."
• The Ruger era. In September 2020, Sturm, Ruger & Co. bought Marlin out of Remington's bankruptcy and rebuilt production. Ruger-made Marlins are widely regarded as excellent, and new 336 production was announced on March 27, 2023.

Not every Remington-era rifle is bad and not every JM rifle is perfect. The point of knowing the era is to know how hard to look. Our Ruger-era Marlin guide covers the current lineup in detail.

Before you touch it

Bring a small flashlight, a bore light or white card, and a soft cloth. If you can, bring a few snap caps or dummy rounds in the right caliber and ask whether you can cycle them.

The ten-step checklist

1. Read the markings. Look at the barrel and receiver for the model, caliber, maker's address and proof marks. A "JM" stamp on the barrel is the mark collectors associate with Marlin's own production. Note the serial number, then use Marlin's online serial number lookup and the independent Marlin Collectors Association to help place the rifle in time.
2. Check the front sight and barrel alignment. Hold the rifle level and look down the top. The front sight should sit straight up, centered on the barrel, and the barrel should not look rotated relative to the receiver. Canted front sights were one of the most common complaints about rifles from the Remington years.
3. Look at the wood-to-metal fit. Run a finger along the joints where the stock and forend meet the receiver. Big gaps, wood standing proud of the metal, or cracks at the tang and wrist are warning signs. Cracks behind the receiver are worth walking away from.
4. Cycle the lever, empty. With the action confirmed empty, work the lever slowly through its full stroke several times. It should move smoothly without binding, and close with the bolt fully forward and the lever snug against the stock.
5. Test the hammer and safety. Ask permission, then check that the hammer holds at full cock and at the half-cock notch, and that the crossbolt hammer-block safety moves positively. Older Marlins made before the crossbolt was added will not have one. Ease the hammer down gently rather than letting it fall.
6. Inspect the bore. With a light at the breech or a white card reflecting into it, look down the muzzle. You want bright rifling and a clean crown at the muzzle. Dark, rough or pitted bores mean a rifle that was put away dirty. Many Marlins have Micro-Groove rifling, which Marlin added to the 336 and its other centerfires in 1956; its shallow grooves look different from conventional rifling, so do not mistake them for wear.
7. Check the magazine tube. Look for dents along the tube, which can stop the follower and the cartridges from moving freely. Check that the magazine cap at the muzzle end is secure.
8. Feed dummy rounds if allowed. Load two or three snap caps through the gate and cycle them. They should feed, chamber and eject cleanly. A rifle that jams on dummies will jam on cartridges.
9. Look at the screws and finish. Buggered screw heads suggest amateur disassembly. Worn bluing at the edges is normal; rust or pitting under the forend and around the action is not.
10. Ask about history. Has it been modified, refinished or worked on? Is there a manual, box or receipt? Aftermarket parts are not automatically bad, but you want to know about them.

What a "Remlin" problem looks like

The complaints about rifles from the Remington years were consistent enough that they are worth knowing by sight. Owners reported:

• Front sights canted to one side or barrels slightly rotated in the receiver.
• Rough, gritty or binding actions.
• Poor wood-to-metal fit and visible machining marks.
• Feeding problems that were sometimes traced to rough internal parts.

Not every rifle from those years had these problems, and some were fixed under warranty or by gunsmiths. If a Remington-era rifle passes the checklist above, it can be a fine shooter. If it fails two or three of these checks, factor the cost of repair into your decision or pass.

Model-specific notes

Marlin 336

The 336 was introduced in 1948 and is most commonly chambered in .30-30 Winchester or .35 Remington. A .35 Remington 336 is a fine deer rifle, but ammunition is less common than .30-30, so check availability before you buy. Feed a .30-30 with flat-nose or round-nose bullets from the .30-30 aisle; our .30-30 whitetail piece covers how the cartridge performs today.

Marlin 1894

The pistol-caliber 1894 has been made in many chamberings, including .357 Magnum since 1979, .44 Magnum and .45 Colt. Confirm the chambering on the barrel and check that the rifle feeds the cartridge length you plan to use. Some 1894s can be particular with short .38 Specials. The .357 Magnum section is a good place to find flat-nose loads to try.

Marlin 1895

The modern 1895, introduced in 1972 in .45-70, is a heavier-recoiling rifle and gets shot hard. Look closely at the stock wrist and tang area for cracks, and check the bore for wear. Remember that some .45-70 loads are made for modern lever actions only, so ask what the previous owner fed it and buy from the .45-70 aisle with the box labeling in mind.

After you buy

Give any used rifle a full cleaning before you shoot it. Field-strip according to the manual, clean the bore, wipe out the action, and lightly lubricate the moving parts. A basic kit from the cleaning supplies section covers it. Our lever-action maintenance guide walks through the routine.

Fire your first rounds at a range from a rest, with eye and ear protection, and watch for feeding or ejection issues. If anything about the rifle seems wrong, have a qualified gunsmith inspect it before you take it hunting.

If the used market is not giving you what you want, a new Ruger-made Marlin or a different maker's lever may be the better route. Ammunition Depot does not stock Marlin rifles, but its lever-action rifle section lists Henry and Rossi alternatives.

Editorial note: This is an independent editorial overview built from manufacturer specifications, retailer listings and published sources. We have not performed hands-on testing of the products discussed, and nothing here is a performance guarantee. Verify specifications, compatibility and the law where you live.

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